He has not created a dish for the occasion

He has not created a dish for the occasion. Farewell speech is pronounced No. Desired step cameras or microphones, despite numerous solicitations. "It is a moment intime, an emotion to share with my wife and my colleagues, I would not like to cry Margot!", explains Olivier Roellinger. Last Sunday, the famous breton Chief gave his last dinner in his Maison de Bricourt. Tired by twenty-six years behind the stoves, overtaken by the legacy of aggression suffered in his youth, he decided, at the age of fifty-three to the three-star restaurant gourmet, Cancale. Its image output. Discrete, and restraint.

Since the announcement of the closure, a little more than a month ago, the restaurant refused 800 requests for reservations. But for this latest service, the evening seem almost ordinary. On the ground floor of the malouinière of his childhood, a beautiful House of shipowner transformed in restaurant, a few tables simply decorated. Furniture have not changed place, floor blades continue to crack. The master of the places held to keep the character of this House, resistant to pressure from Michelin inspectors concerned the reactions of the international clientele. "It is true, it probably hampered my obtaining of a third star." But what benefit is there to climb the same palaces in all corners of France

The taste of adventure

A Bricourt, no Bell in money nor white gloves. The service is attentive, but friendly. Barely 40 covered this last Sunday. Used, for the most part. "Two of these tables that evening were there at the opening, in 1982," likes to emphasize the head. Friends cooks, Michel Guérard (the meadows of Eugénie, in the Landes region), Michel Troisgros and Michel Bras, eponymous chiefs of the stellate tables in Roanne and Laguiole, came the support a few days earlier. Last time, Olivier Roellinger prepares its classics: the saint-jacques fragrant spices "dream Cochin", saint-pierre "return of the Indies". This kitchen Métis iodine flavours and spices alliances turmeric, ginger, fenugreek, star anise, cumin, etc., 120 in total! Seafood or "perfectly identified Lamb" accompanied by chutney, mango, tomato and pineapple, Celtic vinegar aged, rare flower oil, peppers or cocoa. Map permeates the spirit of adventure to Saint-Malo, of its party browsers for the road to India, his buccaneer who have populated the imagination of children of the breton leader. It is also designed as a rewrite of his more recent travels to the Viet Nam, India, Madagascar, the Brazil or the Japan.

His knowledge

Around midnight, the last representation therefore ends. Surrounded by his wife and his collaborators, the "pirate Cook" sharing moments with customers. He tells those strenuous days "as a flight Paris - Los Angeles repeated every day". The same pressure and the same excitement to each service. "Fear of the white base" which sometimes facing. Olivier Roellinger assured yet, it does not shut down due to lack of inspiration or fatigue. "It is simply a history of physics, I can no longer take two times three hours a day before the piano". The head also evokes his desire to lead a new life, to share and pass on his knowledge to a wider public, to "democratize the use of spices". The emotion is exposed when he speaks of his teams, 70 employees accompanying sometimes for more than fifteen years. Almost a second family. "I have taken tonight with my last dinner, as usual, before the service." It is this which goes to miss, which is likely to be hard.

Memories are evoked to demi-mot. Sometimes barely sketched. Yet, the story of Olivier Roellinger is singular. One evening in 1976, five miners attacked bar of iron on the ramparts of Saint-Malo and leave it to death on the beach. After several weeks of coma and months of rehabilitation, he abandoned his studies of chemical engineer. "My convalescence me a disgust of science and the Cartesian reasoning." She drove the emotional and imaginary part that there was in me. "Cuisine has become to me as a means of chewable life and recover the happiness of childhood", he told in 2005 "The Express". The son of physician passes its CAP of Cook and launches body lost in his new passion. Ascension will be rapid.

In 1982, he transforms the family home to open a table d ' hôte. First Star arrived in 1984, the second in 1988. Visit of Michel Guérard, one year later, him suddenly become aware of the size that it is acquiring. But then begins a long wait. The third star is unsatisfactory. In 2005, he was elected best chef of France by his peers. The same year, Michelin grows but the sting until received it the reference to "hope": a first! The ultimate consecration will come finally the following year with the famous third button. To the clap of Thunder in November, when Olivier Roellinger announces that he hangs up his apron.

A well-managed brand

Better start to the race to the stars "No, I was never in the quest for the stars." "Now, the three stars that matter to me are my wife, my daughter and my son," insists the Chief, who swear that it does not guettera annual top of Michelin. But, to listen, we feel some form of respect for France the most famous gourmet guide. A few days before making public his decision, Olivier Roellinger also went to Paris to meet with the two main leaders of the Michelin, Jean-Luc Naret and Jean-François Mesplède. Justify his departure and assure them that he was not unhappy. It is the fourth grand Chief in the Centennial history of the Guide to make its stars after Joël Robuchon, Alain Senderens (Lucas Carton) and Antoine Westermann (Buerehiesel).

However, the story does not stop there. All teams will continue to work for the "mark Roellinger", that is said very well managed. Château Richeux, a large villa of the 1920s, 5 km from Cancale, overlooking the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel, and his "marine bistro", the shell will become the new flagship of the group. Piloted in the kitchen by the current second, Emmanuel Tessier should soon open his card to some of the "classics" Roellinger. There is also, to Cancale even, the gîtes Les Rimains, exhibition of tea-pastry-confectionery Grain of vanilla, "Corsair cooking", the counter of spices school a second shop has opened in Saint-Malo. "I want to value the work of all these men and especially women who provide these flavours, to pay tribute to the hand which was picked up at the other end of the world that grain of pepper and cardamom," says one who was in both inspired.

The Maison de Bricourt will also remain a living place. The Chief did not want to separate from this House that saw him rise and home to all of his memories, built in 1760 by rich shipowners who founded the India Company and were trade of spices at Saint-Malo. Surcouf reportedly spent his childhood in the face... Olivier Roellinger there will invent new recipes. Kitchens become a laboratory where oils, powders and spices brought back from his travels will be developed. They will also welcome chefs and cooks from around the world, will be office rooms exhibition or meeting place for the dramatic travellers of St Malo festival, created by his friend Michel the breakage. The dining room will work "as a foundation which I will be the only patron", slide the head. The invitation to the journey continues...